As a steakhouse, the Black Angus Grille hits the right marks.

It is spacious, comfortable and masculine. Most importantly, it has a kitchen that consistently turns out large, hand-cut steaks.

The restaurant has been a fixture in downtown Statesville for 17 years, although in January it came under new ownership. When Angela Trent bought it, she knew better than to change anything on the venerable menu.

“People come here for the fine dining experience,” Trent says. “All of our steaks are hand cut when you order. The size and quality of our steaks certainly separate us from anyone else.”

It helps to have consistency in the kitchen. Since Day 1, chef Delric Inabinett has taken pride in preparing quality food. The restaurant serves corn-fed black angus beef aged 30 to 60 days. The menu features rib eye, strip, sirloin and filet mignon.

“Corn fed gives the meat a better flavor and texture,” Inabinett says.

Located in the rear of a 160-year-old building that also houses Mayo’s Ristorante and was a dance club before it was turned into a meat-eaters paradise, the interior resembles an outdoorsmen’s lodge, with wildlife trophies mounted on walls and dark wood accents. A stuffed lion and mounted moose head greet diners walking through the side-door entry. The carpeted dining area is divided into two rooms joined by a small, full-service bar over which an alligator hangs. In traditional steakhouse style, it is dimly lighted with a few sheer-covered and white shuttered windows. Tables are topped with white cloth, black-and-white checked vinyl or black vinyl.

The restaurant attracts locals as well as people from Mooresville, interstate highway travelers and business types. Because it has banquet facilities, it also draws large functions, such as wedding receptions and business gatherings. On a recent Saturday evening, couples and small groups dressed casually relaxed in the quiet atmosphere with a pleasant meal.

Refined adventure
From a choice of six appetizers, we went for adventurous and ordered Escargots au Bourguignonne ($7.50). Envisioning the scene from “Pretty Woman” in which Julia Roberts’ character tries to pry the snail from its shell and instead sends it flying across the room, we were happy to see the chef saved us from any embarrassment. The French delicacies were served in a ceramic dish with six wells, each one holding a tender snail in a garlicky butter sauce.

The two soups on the menu are the most popular appetizers, Trent says. The Lobster Bisque ($5.95) is creamy and rich in flavor, and the French Onion Soup au Gratin ($6.95) is a light beef broth with sliced onions topped with browned mozzarella cheese. Shrimp cocktail, potato ribbons and wings round out the first course offerings.

As our meal continued with the arrival of mixed green salads (try the creamy peppercorn dressing) and bread, we enjoyed playing a game of identify that animal on the wall, a menagerie that includes wild boar, mountain goat, black bear, salmon, striped bass, large-mouth bass, pheasant and a variety of ducks.

Sticking with steak
Because the restaurant is known for its steaks – sized big and bigger – that’s what we ordered. The New York Strip and Ribeye (both $20.95 for 16 ounces and $27.95 for 24 ounces) are lightly seasoned but can be coated with fresh cracked peppercorns upon request. Trimmed to leave just a touch of fat along the edges, both 16-ounce steaks were tender and juicy, and were grilled precisely as ordered. For a starch, we selected garlic mashed potatoes over steak-cut french fries and linguini alfredo. The potatoes were creamy with just a hint of the strong seasoning. Well-seasoned sautéed mixed vegetables cooked until just tender filled the remainder of the plate.

The most popular entree is the Butcher Cracked Peppercorn ($22.95). A 16-ounce rib eye is rolled in cracked peppercorns and seared over an open flame.

“It’s a little spicy, but not too hot,”

Inabinett says.

Non-steak lovers won’t feel left out, with other entrees featuring chicken, duck, shrimp and spaghetti. A favorite is Vino Picatta ($15.95 for chicken, $16.95 for veal), which is prepared with white wine, tomatoes, lemons and capers. Sauteed Shrimp Charleston ($16.95) is another noteworthy entrée. It features nine jumbo shrimp sautéed in garlic, thyme, tomatoes, mushrooms and cognac.

Nightly specials give depth to the menu. Specials have included filet mignon, crab legs, lobster tails, grilled or blackened salmon and tilapia.

Desserts are worth saving room for and are large enough to share. From the dessert platter presented by our waitress, we selected Triple Layer Chocolate Torte and Peanut Butter Pie (both $6.95). Much to the amazement of our waitress, who claimed she had never seen it done, my husband wasted no time demolishing the colossal, rich three-layer chocolate cake by himself. Where the cake was decadent, the peanut butter pie was light and satisfying.

Our meal for two, including tax but not tip, was $110.80.

Black Angus Grille

• Address: 125 N. Center St., Statesville
• Contact: 704-872-4200
• Hours: 5:30 p.m.-until Monday-Saturday; closed Sunday.
• Prices: appetizers, $5.95-$7.50; salads, $11.50; entrees, $13.95-$27.95; desserts, $6.95.
• Seating: 175
• Special note: Reservations recommended. Ballroom with seating up to 400 people available for private parties.